In fact, it was a souvenir from Edo: The surprising story of Tsumami-zaiku

The Owner of Ichirindo on the Origins of Tsumami-zaiku

Coming-of-age ceremonies, Shichi-Go-San, weddings. On these celebratory occasions, a small floral hair ornament catches the eye. That is "tsumami-zaiku."

A small piece of fabric is pinched with the fingertips to form a petal, and these petals are layered one by one to create a flower. The elegance and translucence are such that it's hard to believe it's made of cloth. Where did this craft come from, and why has it accompanied Japanese people on their special days? We asked the owner of Ichirindo about its history.

From Imperial Court Decoration to the Common People Through Kabuki

The origins of tsumami-zaiku are said to date back to the Edo period. Originally, it was used in the imperial court as decoration for hair ornaments, combs, and cosmetic boxes. It was a refined craft for a select few.

Surprisingly, the catalyst for its widespread adoption among the common people was Kabuki.

"At that time, Kabuki was the greatest entertainment for commoners. Seeing actors wearing tsumami-zaiku on stage, people yearned to wear it themselves. That desire is what allowed tsumami-zaiku to become a craft for artisans," says the owner.

The aspiration of "wanting it" created demand, establishing it as an artisan's craft and eventually making it accessible to ordinary people. Going back even further, the prototype of the technique of making petals from cloth can be seen in the "yusoku zoka" (courtly artificial flowers) of the Heian period. It is a craft that has been passed down, slowly changing its form over a long period.

"This is a lesser-known story..."

From here, the owner shared an anecdote, prefacing it with, "This is a lesser-known story."

During the Edo period, as travel along the Tokaido road flourished, tsumami-zaiku gained popularity as a travel souvenir.

"It was light and visually appealing. So, it was perfect as a souvenir to carry home over long distances."

Light, compact, yet splendid – tsumami-zaiku was indeed ideal for carrying over long distances. Hair ornaments were a staple, and decorative combs were also popular. Wealthy families would sometimes display kusudama (ornamental balls).

And as sales grew, artisans began to devise ways to create "things that would bring even more joy." This ingenuity, aimed at increasing the added value of souvenirs, further refined the art of tsumami-zaiku.

Incidentally, the owner mentions that even within tsumami-zaiku, preferences differed between Kyoto and Edo. Maiko in Kyoto wore dazzling and gorgeous kushi-kanzashi (ornamental hairpins). In contrast, people in Edo preferred a more subdued, chic appearance. This aesthetic sensibility quietly lives on in the designs of tsumami-zaiku that remain today.

Small yet Enhances What's Beside It

The owner describes the charm of tsumami-zaiku like this:

"It's small, yet it has presence. Up close, it has a transparency unique to silk."

What's interesting is that tsumami-zaiku is not only beautiful on its own, but it also has the power to enhance what it is placed next to. There are real-world examples that illustrate this.

• A hariko (papier-mâché) shop found that when they added tsumami-zaiku to their hariko, the popularity of the hariko increased.
• At the Asakusa View Hotel, when tsumami-zaiku artificial flowers were displayed in place of ikebana, they garnered significant attention.

"A small cloth flower subtly elevates the item next to it. I think that's the interesting aspect of tsumami-zaiku."

To Enjoy for a Long Time – A Storage Tip

Precisely because it's made of fabric, tsumami-zaiku has a slight weakness: humidity. When exposed to moisture, its shape can easily be lost.

However, with a little ingenuity, you can enjoy its beauty for a long time. The owner shared a very simple method.

"Put it in a breathable paper box and include a desiccant (silica gel) like those found in sweets. That makes a huge difference."

This is actually the same principle as storing kimonos in museums. Just as the "tatogami" (paper wrapper for kimonos) absorbs moisture, the power of paper protects precious items. Since the box it comes in often doubles as a storage box, returning it to that box when not in use is the safest option.

Conclusion

From its beginnings as imperial court decoration, through Kabuki to the common people, and loved and refined as an Edo travel souvenir – the small cloth flowers of tsumami-zaiku hold such a long history.

In the next installment, we will delve deeper into the world of tsumami-zaiku. First, its history. We will carefully ask the owner of Ichirindo how courtly attire made its way to the common people and came to be loved as a travel souvenir.